![]() I bought the 12inch version of this for my brother's car. You can buy a lot nicer subs for this price than these: Look for 2.5 or 3inch if you can find one but more pricey. ![]() Not many with larger than 2inch diameter voicecoils in 10inch cone size. If it's puny in size don't expect miracles. You can sort of tell by looking at the motor/magnet structure. Keep in mind, many manufacturers seem to over-rate their products or give "max watts" figures which mean nothing. Many 10inch woofers don't take much more than 150wrms before they start flapping around so get one that takes at least 300. Try to find one that is "ideal" for that box volume. The main thing is, match the subwoofer to the volume of the enclosure. But on occasion you can find a sub that will do well in a small ported enclosure. Sealed being smaller, ported usually larger. That will basically set you up with a choice of sealed or ported. The first place to start is determining how much space you want to give up in your truck's cab. Later you can get better subs and run them in parallel without having to buy a better amp. dZViewItem but wire their subwoofes in series for say 8ohms (4ohm subs in series) so you'd be putting out about 650wrms. Higher impedance subs like two with 4ohm coils with work but produce half power output.Īlternatively, some people go nuts and get one of these: So that means a single sub with dual 2ohm coils or two separate subs with single 2ohm voicecoils. Keep in mind, these amps put out max power into a mono 1ohm load. If you lease your truck you can quickly put it back to stock if you have to. Use those wire splice connectors and run your speaker wires up to the HU from the amp. Yes, you can splice your amplifier speaker outputs into your factory speaker wires (for a 4-channel front/rear setup). Don't use 12gauge speaker wire for power, you'll damage the amp and it'll sound like crap. If you want more than 300wrms consider spending the coin and running 4 gauge power/gnd cables from the battery to where the amp will mount. Worse comes to worse you can always install a toggle switch under the dash to turn your amp on but don't leave it on when it's parked or you'll have a dead battery when u return. If using the stock HU you'll need to tap off the rear speaker outputs and get an amp that takes speaker level input and also activates on that input as most factory HU's don't have a remote turn on wire for amps and external accessories like crossovers, etc. ![]() To keep it simple, find an amp that has a built in crossover of 18db/octave or higher cutoff. If you have the room get at least a single 12inch sub that can handle at least 300wrms and a similar size amp, otherwise you'll want to upgrade real quick. So don't skimp on component $$$ spending. I wanted something bigger after only 2 weeks. My first subwoofer was a Denon 10" back in probably 1988. There are lots of tutorials to be found on the subject. Do a search for "subwoofer design" or similar in google. If you want a tiny box under the back seat, obviously an 18inch woofer that requires 10cu.ft box isn't going to cut it. Most subwoofer driver manufacturers will specify an ideal box design for their particular subwoofer for optimal performance. Generally a Q of less than 0.7 is sealed, and more than that for ported boxes. Some don't sound good in sealed boxes, other not in ported. If you plug these values into a formula you can figure out box tuning, port design, box volume, etc. The port size in diameter or if square, inches area, and length determine tuning frequency.Įach subwoofer will come with Thiele Small Parameter specifications. Output tends to be more boomy and peak at the tuning frequency. Tend to have more output (3db) compared to sealed but low bass extension isn't as good. Ported are usually larger, tuned to a frequency like 35hz for instance. Sealed is for small spaces and bass extension (looooow bass notes). Take a look at my personal site for detailed info on how sealed and ported boxes work.
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